Day 31: Porthoustock to Mawnan Smith

Weather: Southerly gale with horizontal rain, easing later
Distance covered today: 19.7km (12.2mi)
Last night's B&B: The Harbour Inn, Porthleven
% Complete: Cumulative distance: 55.8%:  566.1km
Total Ascent/Total Descent: 733m/ 668m
GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 31 (click!)

After a relaxing and interesting day yesterday, today was back to work with a bang. As I left Porthleven for the last time this trip, having bade a sad farewell to Veronica last evening, I was greeted by a howling gale smashing huge rollers against the harbour defences, and driving, horizontal rain. If anything, the strength of the wind increased as I reached my start point, only to be confronted by another cliff collapse, meaning that I actually departed from Porthallow, 2km beyond Porthoustock. Still, the southerly wind was behind my back blowing me up the slopes and keeping my glasses dry. After a day's rest I felt good to go!

By the time I reached the Coastguard Watch station at Nare Point, the gale was so fierce that the duty officer tried to persuade me to come in out of the cold and have a cup of tea. I was worried at this stage that the ferry at Helford Point wouldn't be operating because of the conditions and I felt that I had better keep going in case I had to make alternative arrangements. I needn't have worried; at least not about this! By the time I had rounded the headland and descended the cliff, the wind was soaring way overhead and the sound was like a millpond!

My first objective was to reach the stepping stones over Gillan Creek at low tide, where I understood there might be a possibility of using stepping stones (!) to reach the other side, especially since today would be low spring tide! I sped happily along the well defined and pleasant, if very muddy path and then all went white and then black and then multi-coloured. I was so studiously and dutifully watching where I was placing every step that I walked headlong into a low-hanging and very solid tree branch which crossed the way, dipping precisely where my head would strike it. At first I thought I was being mugged (typical city boy), but as I veered through 180 degrees of mayhem, I saw the branch in kaleidoscopic detail and decided I was a total moron to have had two accidents within a few days of each other. Only on this occasion, I didn't hit the ground, despite careering round in apoplectic circles of manic fury! I now only have a solid bump to show for it and a glass of smooth red has eased the memory.

I processed further to the stepping stones only to find that indeed the tide was out, but the wet weather had bloated the river, so the stones were impassably covered with all the excessive rainwater running to the sea. Expecting that I might not be able to cross via the stones, I had planned an alternative route, but had also resented the fact that this would add a substantial distance to my journey on what was already a long day. I took my lead from the guidebook which suggested that if unable to use the stones, it would be advisable to avoid the Dennis Head peninsula and head straight for Manaccan and thence to Helford. This I did, feeling very pleased with myself, only to find when I reached the ferry dock on the Helford River that the ferry wasn't operating for the next hour or so, because the spring tide was so low that it didn't have enough water to access the jetty on this side of the river! I might just as well have gone to Dennis Head! Just not my day!  I took off to the pub and sat reading the Economist while idly listening to a group of well-spoken locals who had just been to a funeral for their friend Tim, and were having a pint to remember him.

Once I had successfully crossed the river, now a couple of hours behind schedule, I set off at a fast clip in improving weather only to discover more diversions through cliff collapses. I have literally lost count of the number of diversions that I have encountered on this trip. Each one adds considerably to the distance and usually involves a significant climb. Eventually, when confronted by yet another significant diversion, I threw in the towel and headed straight for tonight's hotel via the local roads, with the result that I completed the walk in a reasonable time.

On balance, I think I am going to have to be a little more flexible for the rest of this trip. The damage to the path is significant and it is adding miles to my planned daily walks. I heard tonight that the Falmouth Ferry wasn't operating today because of the wind and I need to use it tomorrow. The weather is rapidly improving so that may not be a problem, but I am entering an area where there are lots of river crossings and other obstacles and my schedule, in Veronica's sad absence, is completely inflexible.

I will have to be pragmatic and sensible!

Veronica liked this display of tulips and dafs at the entrance to St Michael's Mount yesterday

I really liked the "Blue Room" Queen Victoria visited here, presumably while Albert was running round with the kids at Kynance Cove! There was also a picture of Her Maj and Prince Philip sitting having tea in this room. And then a portrait of Charles and Camilla.  Talk about a well connected family!

The Duke's butler made this model of St Micheal's Mount out of champagne corks. It is apparently highly accurate, but what a lot of champagne!

I have always appreciated Giles' cartoons. Apparently he made this one specially for the Duke

The castle from below. Quite a sight!

Now to more serious matters; heading north from Porthallow in the wind and rain

The Coastguard station at Nare Point comes into view

The coast is in a frenzy. The rain is manic!

That's the officer inside next to my reflection

Round the head, my first sight of the Helford River estuary 

As I descend to sea-level, the wind dies, the waves disappear and its all as calm as a millpond

Then I hit a tree with my head.......

The submerged stepping stones in Gillan Creek

The offer of a significant diversion!

Blossom across the field

Cornish roads! No escape!

"Excuse me, where's the ferry" I asked this fellow. "South African", he said. I couldn't believe it! Five words! He told me he was from Salisbury, Wiltshire. I asked him if he was feeling OK and he roared with laughter and told me that he had just been into the village shop, where the assistant was Russian! I told him to keep his distance! His wife looked bemused!

The village at Helford Point. Very thatch

But no ferry for at least the next hour and a half

My refuge in the pub. The mourners had just departed...

Here comes the ferry, at last!

Yet another diversion. Confound it!

And then another!

The wind has died, but it still looks like winter....

An impassable cliff. This time,my error!

Wartime observation huts, cleverly concealed

Yet another diversion! That's it! I'm heading for the road!

Tonight's comfortable, if eccentric accommodation

Such a strange hotel. Two lone, elderly gents, one elderly couple and me; all having silent dinner with a discreet glass of wine..... Basil Faulty would be in his element!