Thursday, 12 April 2018

Day 27: Penzance to Praa Sands

Weather: Cloudy and cool with an occasional hint of sun
Distance covered today:  15.3km (9.5 mi)
Last night's B&B: The Harbour Inn, Porthleven
% Complete: Cumulative distance: 48.0%: 486.3km
Total Ascent/Total Descent:  279m/279m
GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 1 (click!)

So here I go again! Thank you so much for accompanying me.....

Sometimes, I just have to take my cap off to her! Veronica took one look at my plan for the continuation  of my South West Coast Path odyssey, and asked me if I was losing it! She remembered only too well, the wreck she had encountered last year as I closed painfully in towards Penzance and reminded me that I wasn't getting any younger. The fact that I was planning three 20km+ walks for the first three days of my journey, even before my legs had hardened off, was obvious idiocy. Given the rigours of the ups and downs of the Coast Path, it was lunacy! I tried to explain that there still resides somewhere deep in my psyche that Jesuit inspired need to prove something to myself, if not to the world, but she wasn't having any of it! I tried to explain that it would be a whole lot of work to re-plan the whole thing, but that was always going to be a total loser, so I just got on with re-planning  it.

As it happens, and since Veronica will be with me for the first few days of this session, it was relatively easy to arrange a walk on the day of arrival and that  effectively added a day to my walk. The result is infinitely more sensible but will still be a challenge.

The reason that we were able to make it down here relatively early in the day was because,we were only travelling from Hartpury in Gloucestershire, where Veronica's horse, Ant, was yesterday competing in the Petplan Prix St. George Dressage National Championships under his wonderful rider Molly Key. I can ecstatically report that the combination came FIRST in the competition and are the national champions!! We simply couldn't believe it! Veronica has yet to descend from cloud nine and I'm still up there! It was a happy car that sped down to Penzance from Gloucester this morning!

While Ant went off contentedly to munch some grass in the field, Veronica's other male dependent, (me) set out on what was to be an easy first day on the Coast Path from Penzance. Indeed the first part of the journey flattered to deceive as I followed the railway line past the majestic St. Michael's Mount, a companion on two of my previous walks. The going was easy amongst the happy throng of Easter holiday-makers. That said, I am always amazed and upset by the huge number of middle-aged men just sitting motionless in their cars, staring out to sea with blank expressions on their faces. Why?

I made steady progress through the surprisingly quaint and lovely Marazion, but then the Path drew itself up to remind me that it had not forgotten its primary purpose of grinding me down with its startlingly steep climbs and falls, its unavoidable mud and the huge rocks that joyfully invite me awkwardly to clamber over them. I tried a number of detours to avoid obstacles, but generally made things even worse for myself, and certainly extended the agony; so much so that I arrived at the end-point an hour and a half later than originally scheduled.

The saving grace was that mobile connections were excellent and Veronica was able to follow my progress on a Google map on her phone, and also to send me numerous reassuring Whatsapp messages as I progressed.

What incredible digital development from my first big walk only seven years ago! The world seems so much smaller.

Ant in his winner's finery, complete with the champion's sash and blanket! He looked magnificent!

Rather less magnificent, your correspondent setting out on the third leg of the South West Coast Path



Being bade farewell by the gorgeous Veronica

The entrance to Penzance station! I remember it as the gates of hell before I started LEJOG. Now it seemed somehow, just industrial...

Of course I didn't take their advice. Silly me!

St Michael's Mount in the mist

Quaint Marazion

St Michael's Mount from the other side

Back to the coves and beaches of the SWCP

She was either bird-watching or meditating. It was too early in my journey for me to ask her which! No doubt the time will come!! 

Acton Castle. Why?

A rather inhibited example of Cornish curzyway dry stonewalling. Still, great to be back amongst it

Is that the sun? Not a companion these last weeks!

Strange architecture

Familiar coastal scenes!

A rocky road to the end

10 comments:

  1. Well done Molly and Ant! You look really set for the start! Your question about the name "Action Castle" built by the Botanist John Steakhouse is a good one - we can only guess that it so named because he is said to have built it in order to further his studies into Algae and the like.
    The coffee ad was a clever enticement and the less active like us (me) would have been hard pressed to resist!

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    1. Great to hear from you Pete, the very first comment of this voyage. Agreed on Molly and Ant; I bathe in their reflected glory! On the coffee add, by the end of today, I was beginning to think I made the wrong choice!

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  2. KTB - Greetings to you both from GH and HN.
    3 reasons to be delighted here on a grey morning -
    Firstly that out of the blue, you're off again, so an exciting few weeks ahead for all your regular followers, I'm sure.
    Secondly of course fantastic to hear of Ant and Molly's success - a massive achievement indeed, and presumably without any real Jesuit affected influences? Well, maybe only slightly and indirectly..?
    Thirdly and wonderfully I can chuck in a provocative suggestion straight away, having recently been vexed by thoughts on the "progress" of today's digital world being entirely in one positive direction - Perhaps you should knock on some of those windows occupied by the vacant middle aged men and ask them if they have or had other halves and what they're up to just at that moment? BTW, has anyone conducted research into gender differences in relative time spent on portable Ed's? Probably far too dodgy territory to stray into...
    Enjoy today and hopefully sunny Cornwall - the fact that you've fired the starting gun again must surely be the harbinger of a ch ange in weather for us all at last?
    L& BW from HN and a grumpier than usual GH

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    1. So good to hear from you, GH! We really haven't been in touch of late, much water, etc. I see you straying into dangerous territory in your comments on the gender issue. As you know, I am the only male in my family, so have to tread carefully! I suspect though that they are too busy doing other things with their devices at the moment! Love to HN!

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  3. Lovely that you're back on the path, Kev! Hope its fun and I look forward to the next post!

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    1. Granny Barbs, so good to hear from you! I assume you have been very busy and are having the best time. I intend to enjoy it, through gritted teeth if necessary!

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  4. Congratulations on starting another walk, Kevin. Congratulations to Ant, Molly and Veronica. It looks like our curse on the UK weather will lift when we leave next week. So, you should have nice weather soon. Best wishes for the walk. As the Japanese say, Please Do Your Best! 頑張ってください。Rob

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    1. Thanks Rob, we do hope you and Phyllis have a good trip back and that you enjoyed yourself here. Certainly Veronica is still up on Cloud 9, so wave to her as you pass! Thanks for the good wishes!

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  5. Congratulations to Ant and his rider. Ant looks really proud of himself!

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    1. Quite right Bridgy, he was such a good boy, and he knows it! He's being spoiled rotten!

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