Day 7: Westleigh to Westward Ho!

Weather: Grey to start then sunny with strong westerley

Distance covered today: 18.6km (11.6mi)

Last night's B&B: Honeysuckle Cottage

% Complete: Cumulative distance: 14.4%:  145.8km

Total Ascent/Total Descent: 323m/ 344m

GPS satellite track of today's route: Day 7(click!)

The rain forecast for today failed to materialise, or more accurately, the front passed by while I was still firmly asleep, so that I spent much of today’s walk in lovely sunshine. Given a relatively relaxed schedule, I was also able to explore the fascinating little towns of Bideford, Appledore and Westward Ho! at greater leisure. This last is the only town in Britain to have an exclamation mark in its name. Also, though there are many novels named after a town, Westward Ho! is the only town to have been named after a novel! The author, Charles Kingsley, was a resident of Bideford when he wrote the novel, described in Wikipedia as racist and anti-Catholic. Nevertheless, it was the very first book adapted for radio by the BBC in 1925. Kingsley’s book was published in 1855 and the town was started less than a decade later. As such it is, by British standards, a new town and it certainly looks it!

While many are rather snooty about its very obvious architectural limitations, I found it to be a friendly sort of place, catering exclusively to holiday-makers and my guidebook says that “whatever else you may think of it, there’s nowhere else like Westwood Ho! on the entire path”.

Bideford, where Kingsley actually lived and where he based his novel, is very different. I was amused to find a plaque on the Long Bridge commemorating the restoration of the bridge, in 1925! Actually the bridge dates back to 1284, and the name of the town (pronounced ‘Bid-a-fud’) means “by the ford”. In 1587, settlers sailed from Bideford for Virginia to establish what is thought to be the first English-speaking colony in North America.

Between the two lies Appledore, a picturesque little fishing village, with a rather alarming quay; completely unprotected by any sort of barrier with a clear 20ft vertical drop to the moored boats below! The village is a maze of little streets and multi-coloured cottages, where the traditional focus on fishing seems to have been replaced by an obsession with art and design. I could have spent more time there, but aimless pottering is not the lot of the long-distance walker!

Talking of which, another day passed without my encountering any. I did at one point share a moment with an avuncular and rather laconic Aussie. He told me he had a couple of spare days and had chosen to do a bit of the SWCP, but his pack is too big and heavy, so he was being very selective about what he was choosing to do, using a daypack and local buses. It all seemed eminently sensible to me. He had previously done the Coast-to-coast and Offa’s Dyke, so he certainly qualifies, if not on this occasion. He cut the conversation short and went on his way.

Meanwhile the path itself continued its eccentric circumnavigation of the Taw and Torridge estuary. Late this afternoon I was still able to see a hotel I had passed a couple of days ago above Saunton Sands. Baggy Point came magnificently back into view, this time surrounded by a much angrier sea. I don’t think I have ever walked so far and covered so little distance as the crow flies, not that I have minded as it has introduced me to a fascinating community of ancient towns (Westward Ho! excluded!!), which obviously owe their antiquity and continuing prosperity to the protection of the estuary.

That said, I don’t think this element of the walk would appeal to many walkers. Recently, and somewhat out of character, I joined a group of very experienced walkers; associates of a friend who is a retired colonel. We went to walk in Malhamdale, a place I remember with great affection from my experience on the Pennine Way. I was a little apprehensive, as I was aware that the group was very experienced and had been walking and climbing together for many years. I didn’t know how I would react to walking in a group, or indeed whether I would be able to keep up with them. In the event, I was one of the younger participants, and was able to keep up. Two of them were walking tour leaders, capable of leading experienced walkers on the most challenging of walks, but some of the others were past their prime (I know the feeling!), and the group, described as “a mixed-ability group” easily accommodated each other, as only an old group of friends can.

I was though interested that some of the participants were not interested in walking for the sake of it. For them, a walk has to have a purpose; for instance either a difficult objective with the satisfaction of achievement, or access to a beautiful environment or view. I don’t think that they would make good long-distance walkers. Those of us with the wild and staring eyes like walking indeed just for the sake of it, with beautiful views and singular achievements being rather intermittent and unexpected surprises.

So it is with this walk.

On that note, I bid you farewell. I’m off home tomorrow after this first leg of the SWCP. I haven’t yet decided when to do the next bit; I had thought I would do one leg per year, but this has been too short, so what about later in the year? We’ll see! 

Thank you very much for your company!

The new Torridge Bridge, described in my guidebook as "ugly but necessary". Actually, I find it rather graceful

Now, this mermaid confused me! To start I thought that she was an evolutionary curiosity needing diving equipment to submerge. Then I noticed the fish in her helmet implying she needed water to breathe. Then I noticed her pointing to the caravan, and gave up!

Kingsley's "little white town" of Bideford. That is his description and it now proudly proclaims itself as such on the signposts at the entrances to the town

The ancient Long Bridge

It was "Yarn Bombing Day" in Bideford last weekend. All the trees and lampposts get covered in multi-coloured woollen scarves as part of a charity drive 

The Pannier Market in Bideford. Whereas the market in Barnstaple was British, this one is decidedly English. Why?

I'm an elderly tree and my balance is suspect. I need a helping hand!

Hours after I started, I passed last night's village on the other side of the river. I could see my room!

Attractive cottages on the way into Appledore

Building an Irish naval vessel at the Babcock Shipyard near Appledore

Appledore Quay

The narrow streets and pastel coloured cottages of Appledore

Then, Saunton Sands Hotel comes back into view, days later!

Not to mention Baggy Point, beyond Croyde Bay!

Westward Ho! over the Royal North Devon golf course, the very first links course in England!

Looking beyond Westward Ho! to the cliffs beyond; waiting for my next trip!

Kite surfing off Westward Ho!

Sorry, but this is Westward Ho! humour!

A typical coastal scene in Westward Ho!